SIDYMA, TURKEY: WHERE COWS POSE NEXT TO LYCIAN SARCOPHAGI

Imagine yourself at one of the numerous historic locations around Turkey. Are you participating in an excursion or tour that is guided by a tour operator? Or are you trying to find something a little less touristy and more genuine? Explore Sidyma if you’re looking for a place to visit that might not be as large as others, but will probably leave you with much deeper impressions and a better grasp of Lycian life.

Though a little isolated, this nearly unspoiled location is off the beaten path and next to the Lycian Way in the Xanthos Valley. A visit here is sure to be worthwhile.

REOCCUPIED SIDYMA: LIFE ON ANCIENT GROUNDS

Similar to Stratonikeia, Sydima is an old site that was abandoned and is now inhabited by people who live there. The people constructed their present houses and even the mosque by ingeniously repurposing pre-cut Roman and Byzantine stone and pillars. The entire settlement is now recognised as an archaeological site. Therefore, building is not allowed in this area. In actuality, even minor repairs or modifications may incur a large fine.

The Muhtar’s (the village chief) wife Bediha is likely to greet you when you arrive. In addition to serving you tea, she will attempt to narrate the history of the hamlet, including the tale of the fine they were forced to pay for temporarily extending their home to serve as a terrace. (The precise location where she is putting her tea on.) Living on old lands comes with a price, yet despite this, the village is their pride and delight, and they provide the warmest welcome to any visitor.

Offering tea (çay) to visitors and travelers is a common thing in Turkey. Especially in small and relatively remote villages like this one, people are honored to welcome you, and being a guest in Turkey is all part of the experience.

THE SERENITY OF AN UNTOUCHED SITE

Sidyma remains untouched. The return of people to reoccupy the abandoned site is the only thing that has changed. Apart from that, there are no amenities, no restorations, and no previous or continuing excavations. Just the natural world, the past, and Turkish rural life now. There are no noteworthy buildings in this area, save from a single, still-standing edifice with a wall that is nine metres high. In its heyday, the city boasted a fortress and a (poorly preserved) theatre, but these days the primary draws are the numerous sarcophagi dispersed across the necropolis.

They are surrounded by fields and meadows in a picturesque and verdant valley. At the mosque, begin your Sidyma discovery walk. You can round the settlement and reach the necropolis on the left side by following a narrow path covered with stones. Though we think these images speak for themselves, you can learn more about Sidyma’s history here if you’d like.

The times in Turkey when we’ve wished we could speak Greek The ability to read and comprehend the writing on these sarcophagi must be incredible. And here too, arches seem to be an incredibly stable construction method. They are doing a fantastic job of passing the test of time! It is highly probable that the tallest structure still standing in Sidyma is a temple-tomb or Roman imperial heroön. It was constructed utilising stones from previously collapsed structures on top of an earlier structure.

Sidyma (or Dodurga in today’s Turkey) lies between Fethiye and Kalkan, and you reach it by leaving the D400 connecting both cities. We recommend that you consider taking the scenic route from Ölüdeniz to Dodurga, which will offer you some of the most amazing views before diving into history. You won’t find any hotels in Sidyma, but the locals are more than happy to accommodate you or allow you to camp in the mosque garden.

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