HIERAPOLIS: THE UNDERRATED SITE BEHIND PAMUKKALE, TURKEY

We really do appreciate the beauty and historical significance of Hierapolis, the ancient city that is closely associated with the travertines of Pamukkale. While Pamukkale may be more well-known and frequently mentioned in travel recommendations, it’s important not to overlook Hierapolis in your visit. In fact, both Pamukkale and Hierapolis are included in the same ticket price, offering visitors the opportunity to explore two remarkable sites in one visit.

Hierapolis offers a rich historical and archaeological experience. From the well-preserved theater to the intricate necropolis and the impressive ancient city ruins, there is so much to discover beyond just the travertines. Unfortunately, due to the overwhelming popularity of Pamukkale, many visitors tend to focus solely on taking selfies on the white travertine terraces and may not fully explore the wonders of Hierapolis.

In 2019 for instance, Hierapolis was Turkey’s most visited ancient site, with more than 2.550.000 people buying a ticket. Ironically, most of those visitors hardly look beyond Hierapolis’ Theatre in their urge for the perfect selfie on Pamukkale’s white travertines. And that’s a shame if you know how beautiful Hierapolis is.

The Top Of The Skene At The Theatre With The Mountain Tops As A Backdrop

In this article, we’ll show you why you need to dedicate some extra hours to visit the ancient site. And we’ll also give you practical tips to make the most of your visit. You will also find the answer to questions such as which entrance to take? How to avoid the crowds? And when to visit Pamukkale? Or if it is true that the travertines are dry and empty?

Some Of The Man Made Pools Seen From Above

PAMUKKALE & HIERAPOLIS

For visitors who arrive on tour buses to Pamukkale. It is unfortunate that, due to the limited time available, many of them miss out on exploring Hierapolis. However, for those who are able to plan their visit and allocate sufficient time, it is highly recommended to include a trip to Hierapolis alongside a visit to Pamukkale.

Hierapolis offers a wealth of historical and archaeological treasures that are worth exploring. From the well-preserved theater and the stunning necropolis to the fascinating ancient city ruins, there is much to discover and appreciate. It’s a shame that some visitors miss out on these remarkable sights. If you have already been to Pamukkale without exploring Hierapolis, it is understandable that you may feel some regret. But for those who are still in the planning stages of their trip, it is definitely worth considering adding Hierapolis to your itinerary. Taking the time to explore this underrated ancient city will enhance your overall experience and provide a deeper understanding of the historical and cultural significance of the region.

So, if you have the opportunity, make sure to allocate sufficient time to visit Hierapolis along with Pamukkale. It will undoubtedly be a rewarding and enriching experience.

BRING THE RIGHT STUFF WITH YOU

This may be a strange topic to start with, but in the case of Pamukkale, it’s a good idea to come prepared and to know what to expect. These are the Pamukkale essentials you need to carry in your bag:

• Bring a bag big enough to fit your shoes and socks, since footwear isn’t allowed on the travertines. Top tip: a dedicated plastic bag will keep the rest of your stuff nice and clean!

• Don’t forget your sunglasses and sunscreen. No matter what time of year it is, the travertines are so bright that you will need protection.

• You should bring water and some snacks, especially when on a budget. Several food and drink stalls line the travertines, but their convenient location and proximity come at a price.

• If you plan on going into the travertine pools, wear swimwear under your clothes. Practical, quick-drying, and designed for water.

• In the colder seasons, you may want to bring a towel. The pools are comfortably hot, but you will appreciate having a sheet to dry your feet and legs once you get back out.

The South Gate At Pamukkale And Hierapolis

WHICH ENTRANCE TO USE?

There are 3 gates different gates at Pamukkale.

The choice of which gate to use depends on your mode of travel and preferences.

If you are staying in town or arriving on foot, the lower West Gate is the best option. Although it requires climbing up past the travertine terraces, the other gates are located at the top of the site and are a long walk away. The West Gate is also convenient for those arriving by dolmuş, as the buses stop below it.

For those driving, there are two options: the North Gate and the South Gate. The North Gate involves a longer drive and walk to reach Pamukkale. However, it offers the opportunity to visit the impressive Necropolis of Hierapolis, which is often overlooked. There is also a paid shuttle service from the North Gate to the central area of the site, near the antique pool. You can choose to use the shuttle upon arrival or after your visit.

On the other hand, the South Gate is a bit closer to the travertines and provides the option to rent an electric golf cart or a mobility scooter. However, it is typically busier, especially during peak tourist season or when tour buses are present.

Overall, consider your mode of transport and any specific preferences you may have when choosing which entrance gate to use.

The Selfie Circus In Full Out Of Season Swing

According to the information provided, the best time of the year to visit Pamukkale is during the spring or autumn seasons. Visiting during these times has several advantages. Firstly, you can avoid the crowds that typically occur during the summer months or peak tourist season. This allows for a more enjoyable visit, as you can explore the site at your own pace and have a more peaceful experience.
In addition, visiting Pamukkale in spring or autumn offers more pleasant temperatures compared to the hot summer months. The moderate temperatures during these seasons make it more comfortable to explore the site and enjoy the natural beauty of the travertines.

It’s worth noting that winter in Pamukkale may see snowfall, which can create a unique and beautiful landscape. However, the area surrounding the travertines may also appear white due to snow, which could affect the overall experience.
As for the best time of the day to visit Pamukkale, it is recommended to go early in the morning or later in the day. Arriving early, such as when the site opens at 6:30 am, allows you to avoid the crowds and have a more immersive experience. On the other hand, if you prefer to visit later in the day, you can explore the travertines before the closing time at 7 pm.

It’s important to note that being at the site at exactly 6:30 am is not necessary, unless you want to have a chance to take photos when the pools are relatively empty. If you prefer a more relaxed start to your day, visiting Pamukkale well out of the peak season and arriving by 10 am can still provide a delightful experience.

Overall, choosing to visit Pamukkale in spring or autumn, and planning your visit early in the morning or later in the day, can enhance your experience by avoiding crowds and enjoying more comfortable temperatures.

Oh Well, It’s A Classic

PAMUKKALE OR HIERAPOLIS? WHAT FIRST?

That depends on what your priorities are. How much time have you allowed to visit the site, and – most importantly – at what time will you arrive? The ‘big attraction’ for most visitors is without a doubt Pamukkale and its travertines, followed by Hierapolis’ Theatre. That’s where you risk running into a circus if you do not plan your visit the right way.
If you’re aiming to avoid the crowds as much as possible, visit Pamukkale as early or as late as possible, early being your best choice. After that, head over to visit the Theatre, and take the rest of the day to explore Hierapolis. This only works if you arrive early in the morning.
If you arrive later in the day, with the crowds already there, save the pools and the theater for last after most buses have left. As a bonus, if you’re visiting in spring or autumn, this will also be the perfect timing for some great sunset shots

Pamukkale is a natural site located near Denizli in Turkey. It is known for its unique and stunning white terraces, which resemble a cotton castle, hence the name “Pamukkale” meaning “Cotton Castle” in Turkish. The site is also home to the ancient city of Hierapolis.
The formation of Pamukkale is a result of calcite-laden waters from hot springs that flow down the hillside, creating petrified cascades. These cascades or terraces are composed of deposited calcium bicarbonate, which gives them a white and fluffy appearance. The constant flow of hot water from the springs, at a temperature of 35°C, continues to shape and maintain the travertine formations. The high calcium bicarbonate levels in the water are believed to have healing properties.

The travertine cliffs of Pamukkale are the most striking feature of the site. These cliffs, reaching heights of up to 20 meters, have stone waterfalls and semi-circular pools behind terraces of varying heights. The terraces form natural weirs where the water spills over, creating a visually captivating scene. The upper section of the slope is dominated by these terraces, while the lower section is where the Greco-Roman-Byzantine city of Hierapolis was founded. Some structures of Hierapolis are partially embedded in the travertine formations, adding to the unique charm of the site.
Pamukkale is not only recognized for its natural beauty but also for its historical significance. The ancient city of Hierapolis, founded around the hot springs, boasts well-preserved ruins from the Greco-Roman and Byzantine periods. Visitors can explore the archaeological remains, including a theater, necropolis, temples, and baths, offering a glimpse into the rich history of the region.

Overall, Pamukkale is a captivating site that showcases the harmony between nature and history, making it worthy of its UNESCO World Heritage status.

The short answer? No. Does this mean you shouldn’t visit? Not at all, just know that not all the photos that you see online are recent and that Pamukkale looks a lot different today than it does in some of those photos. Why does it look different? And are the rumors that the terraces or dry true? You’ll find the answers to those questions below.
Back in the good old days, perpetual fresh deposits of calcium carbonate gave the pools and travertines their bright white color. However, over time the bright white turned into a gloomy grey as the flow lessened. Why did this happen?

In short? Over-tourism. With the growing popularity of the site came more visitors. And more visitors resulted in more infrastructure. Hotels were built on-site (yes, that’s correct, on-site), using the spring water for their pools. People were allowed to walk freely on the travertines and bathe in the natural pools. Soon, the beautiful white cotton castle that was Pamukkale started turning grey due to littering, pollution by sewage, and mechanical damage to the travertines from the constant traffic.

Something needed to be done, and a protection and management plan was drawn. The hotels were demolished, the decreasing thermal water flow was controlled, and bathing and walking on the natural pools were forbidden. New artificial pools were built to cater to the demands of tourists wanting to bathe and walk in the pools. As a consequence, the quality of the travertine deposit is returning, and the terraces are slowly recovering from the damage done.
But why are the terraces dry most of the time? There is a ‘watering schedule’ in place. This is all part of the project and the efforts to restore them. Walking over their delicate travertine surface erodes the existing calcite crystals and delays the formation of the new ones. Releasing the water in some areas, and then stopping the flood gives the surfaces time to dry and heal.

Yes, Pamukkale was pure magic when it was still all-natural, and the pools were white and filled with thermal water. But what’s done is done. The current situation is merely an attempt to undo the mistakes from the past.
Depending on what day you visit, you may see that some areas are dry, and others have the thermal waters flooding over them. Apart

from the dedicated pools, all areas are off-limit, and we should consider this a good thing. Who knows, in time, we’ll get to see this natural wonder in all its glory again. For now, it is still an amazing place to visit if you manage to look beyond the Instagram clichés.

Click here to read more about the way this UNESCO site is monitored by UNESCO Conservation Outlook

HIERAPOLIS: EXPERIENCE THE ‘ON TOP OF THE WORLD’ FEEL

High up is the place for the best views, protection against sudden invasions, and a general feeling of ruling the world. In Hierapolis, you get all that, and a view towards the famous Pamukkale travertines to dip your toes in.

HIERAPOLIS IN HISTORY

Hierapolis’ remains testify to its richness in Roman times. The city was most likely founded by one of Alexander the Great’s successors, and later, in 188 BC, passed into the hands of the Kings of Pergamon. But evidence suggests that this place was occupied long before that – in prehistoric times – probably as a place of worship around the cave of Plutonium. The area around the cave is currently not accessible, along with the Sanctuary of Apollo, and the Temple Nymphaeum.

Click here to read more about this so-called Gate to Hell

Hierapolis means ‘holy city’ or ‘sacred city’, and the consensus is that the name probably originates from the religious traditions that arose around this cave. Fast forward to the 1st century AD when Hierapolis became involved in industrial activities such as wool production and fabric dyeing. Strabo mentioned that the hot thermal water was used to fixate the color of the wool.
In the Christian Era, Hierapolis transforms quickly and matures – much like nearby Laodicea – to an influential city with large communities of Christians and Jews. It later becomes a Bishopric, and gained enormous prestige with its tomb of the Apostle Philip.

After 616, it was struck by a violent earthquake from which it never fully recovered. The city became more ruralized in the centuries to follow, only to be conquered by the Seljuks somewhere in the first part of the 13th century. By the 15th century, the city was left abandoned until it was rediscovered by western travelers, such as Raymond Chandler, in 1765.

Apollon Temple With The Theatre At The Back

HIERAPOLIS’ AMAZINGLY WELL-PRESERVED THEATRE

The Theatre at Hierapolis offers stunning views and is still in use nowadays, at least by the odd tourist performing an out-of-the-blue serenade during your visit. We’re confident that attending a classical concert at this venue would no doubt be a real feast for your senses. This is the most visited structure in Hierapolis.

A Theatre With A View In Hierapolis

The Theatre was built in three different phases, the first phase being from the end of the 1st century BC till the beginning of the 1st century AD. By the end of this first phase, the Theatre had a smaller stage with a Doric façade and a Skene on two levels.

The Level Of Detail Of The Ornaments At The Theatre Is Amazing!

The three levels of a new, massive Skene are constructed at the start of the third century AD. It is embellished with mythological characters and reliefs. A beautiful façade with marble niches and columns enlarges and completes the stage. The restoration of the Theatre and the construction of a vast pool for aquatic performances mark the beginning of the third phase, which occurs in the fourth century AD. The swimming pool had a waterproof masonry lining and a piping system for filling and draining it.

The Magnificent Skene

Research and restoration work on the Theatre is ongoing and started in the summer of 1957 by the Italian Archaeological Mission of Hierapolis in Phrygia. Their focus lies on preservation and restoration, and in recent years, both the stage and the Skene have been reconstructed and restored, allowing the visitors to gain a unique insight in the Baroque architecture of Asia Minor.

Future ideas include the introduction of different itineraries in and around the Theatre to enhance the building and its context. The inner itinerary will follow the ancient passages for the public, once they have been restored.

THE MARTYRION OF SAINT PHILIP

While the Theatre seems to be dominating the city, there’s more to see higher up. One of those places is the Martyrion of Saint Philip, the place where Apostle Philip was martyred. The Martyrion is now a church with an octagonal core, a reference to eternity, the symbolic meaning of the number eight. In the square structure surrounding the church were 28 rooms to house pilgrims.

The Stunning Martyrion Of St Philip In Hierapolis

The Columns At The Church Of Sepulchre

On your way up to the Martyrion, you’ll walk past the Saint Philip Gate, a bridge, an octagonal Hamam, and – after you’ve conquered the monumental staircase, the Church of the Sepulchre, built around the Tomb of Saint Philip.

THE CENTRAL HAMAM – HIERAPOLIS MUSEUM

In between the Theatre and the travertines lies the Central Hamam, home to the on-site archaeological museum. Please note that you will need to pay extra to access this area and that it closes at 5 pm. The Central Hamam was built in the 2nd century AD, and the complex covers an area of approximately 1,5 hectares, of which only a small part is accessible.

Is it worth paying extra for? Yes. It’s only a small amount, and the collection of artifacts and statues gives you more context for the rest of your visit.

The Central Bath Area Where The Museum Is Located

FRONTINUS STREET

Frontinus Street is Hierapolis’ main street. It connects the Central Hamam area to the Necropolis and the North Gate. The street was made in the 1st century AD, together with the gate with the same name. It is 14 meters wide and has a covered main drain in the center. The street was sided by numerous buildings such as shops, houses, warehouses, a fountain building, and latrines, all unified by a 170-meter long travertine façade.

Frontinus Street could only be brought to light after pneumatic compressors broke through the 2-meter thick layer of calcareous deposit that covered it.

Frontinus Gate And Street Looking Glorious!

THE LATRINE

The Latrine right next to the Frontinus Gate was built at the end of the 1st century AD. While it had collapsed entirely after an earthquake, its elements were preserved, allowing an almost complete reconstruction. A row of columns separates the room into two corridors. Each had their row of seats and drains.

FRONTINUS GATE

This gate represents the monumental entrance to the Roman city and is dated to 84 AD. The Frontinus Gate was extremely well-preserved. The arched gate was flanked by two round towers which have been partially preserved.

North Byzantine Gate With Frontinus Street And Gate In The Background

THE IMPRESSIVE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS

Asia Minor’s most significant and imposing Necropolis is located in Hierapolis. Situated in the northern region of the city, it spans about two km and is home to magnificent funeral homes from various eras.

For the experts among us, the Northern Necropolis of Hierapolis is the location of Sacella, Sarcophagi, Bòmos from the second century AD, Heroons from the first century BC, and Tumulus from the Hellenistic Age. The Northern Necropolis of Hierapolis is a must-see when visiting. Even if you’ve probably explored other necropoles, we assure you that this one is really special.

Tomb 162 With Two Funerary Chambers

OTHER NOTEWORTHY STRUCTURES IN HIERAPOLIS

You will see countless buildings and ruins during your day in Hierapolis, some more impressive and well-preserved than others. There are still a lot of surprises to be discovered at this site, and archaeologists and tourists alike have a bright future ahead of them. The spectacular city walls and gates include the only partially excavated 1st century AD Gymnasium.

The Northern Necropolis and the Frontinus Gate are separated by the Basilica Bath. Even though this building appears to be about to collapse, it is nevertheless a magnificent structure that was originally a bath complex before becoming a church.

Water Supply Canals Near The Gymnasium

Frontinus Gate And Basilica Bath At Golden Hour

THE SACRED POOL: YAY OR NAY?

You have a rare opportunity to swim in a legally protected area at the sacred pool. Even when you visit Pamukkale outside of peak season, the naturally heated pool water is a wonderful experience thanks to the hot springs. The holy pool was surrounded by marble columns in the Roman era. They have been resting in the water since they fell in following an earthquake.

Swimming is extra and can get very crowded, so make sure to schedule your visit appropriately. This seems like something that would be checked off a person’s bucket list. It won’t enhance your trip to Hierapolis in any other way. Look at Limyra if you want a comparable experience away from the throng and in a natural setting. Although the archaeologists there warn against swimming, people do swim on top of the remains there.

Cleopatra’s Pool

The Popular Sacred Pool

PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR YOUR VISIT

We have covered most essentials in our ‘Things to know before you go’ section at the top of this article. We strongly advise you to arrive the night before, so that you can make an early start without rushing things. If you stay another night after your visit, you can walk around for as long as you like and even admire the travertines at night.

And while you’re here, do check out these painted mosques near Pamukkale that organized tours skip. They are mind-blowingly beautiful!

Please, head over to the tabs below for more practical tips that will help you prepare your visit to Pamukkale

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