OINOANDA
By Slowtravelguide
OINOANDA AND ITS 80X4M INSCRIPTION WITH THE SECRET TO HAPPINESS
Looking for a simple way to find happiness? While the inscription may have faded, Oinoanda still offers plenty to make you smile. Join us on a tour of this beautiful destination and uncover the happiness within its other features. From captivating landscapes to intriguing ruins, there’s something here for everyone. Discover the joy of Oinoanda with us and embrace the wonders of cultural Turkey. A Trip Through Cultural Turkey – slowtravelguide.net.
The Arches Of The So-Called Library
OINOANDA: THE HISTORICAL CONTEXT
Oinoanda was strategically located, 1.400m high on a hilltop overlooking the Lycian plains below. Contrary to nearby Termessos, the Lycians & Psidians at Oinoanda were conquered by Alexander the Great, and the Persian influence made room for Hellenization. After Alexander the Great passed away, the whole of Lycia was added to the Hellenistic Attalid Kingdom, and later to the Roman Empire and the Byzantine Empire.
Get A Glimpse Of The Village Below
DIOGENES OF OINOANDA & THE SECRET TO HAPPINESS
Oinoanda was home to Diogenes, a wealthy philosopher who – before he died – spent his entire fortune on an Epicurean inscription on a wall near the portico of the city. To date, it is the most significant find in this ancient city and is said to be the largest ancient inscription ever discovered.
Depending on the source, the estimated dimensions of the inscribed wall vary between at least 65 to 80m wide, and at least 3,25m high. Its surface of around 260m2 contained an estimated of 25.000 words. The inscription included a series of instructions, letters, and epitomes describing the main principles of Epicureanism, the philosophy that made Diogenes happy. If you’re wondering what Epicureanism is all about, the video below explains it quite nicely.
Fragment 30 Of Diogenes Inscribed At Oinoanda
With the building of the wall, Diogenes hoped to leave a legacy for generations to come, and to help people achieve the same level of happiness he had. The wall was built around 120 AD, and it is unsure how long it was visible. It may have been destroyed by natural causes, like an earthquake, or it was ruined deliberately.
In any case, the blocks containing the inscription were later reused as a building material all over the city. The inscription fell into oblivion – as did the rest of the city – after it was abandoned, probably in the 9th century.
Things changed when two French scholars found a few fragments of the inscription in 1884, and research began. About a decade later, Austrian researches continued the study but discontinued their work at the beginning of the 20th century. After that, between the 1960s and the 1990s British investigations started, followed by German-British joint investigations by Hammerstaedt and Smith.
In the video below Martin Ferguson Smith explain how he sees the inscription of Diogenes at Oinoanda as a gigantic jigsaw puzzle.
Over the years, new fragments of inscribed wall-pieces were found and analyzed. Fast-forward to the last two decades, when a team from the German Archaeological Institute continues to work at Oinoanda using modern methods to discover the pieces of the puzzle that are still missing.
Apart from a few days in 1997, the Turkish authorities never permitted to excavate at Oinoanda. This probably accounts for the current state of Oinoanda, and it explains why only a fraction of the wall-pieces has been found. Click here if you’re interested in reading a translation of the inscription containing the key to happiness according to Diogenes and Epicureanism.
Can You See The Path?
OINOANDA TODAY
Visiting Oinoanda today takes a bit of an effort, yet another reason why this site probably remained under the radar for so long. Accessing this place, and even walking around the site, is only possible if you’re fit, and you have no mobility issues. The hike is short in distance, but steep and on rough terrain. When you finally arrive, it won’t be the views alone that leave you breathless! You’ll find the site not too far off the main Fethiye – Antalya road, in the direction of Seki, near the village of İncealiler.
This is rural Turkey at its best; it doesn’t get more authentic than this. Once you’re at the village, the way to the site is waymarked up to a certain point. In any case, at one point you will have to leave your car behind and walk the last 500m.
Rock Cut Tomb Above The Theatre
Spot The Sarcophagus
Take the path to the right of the Oinoanda sign and follow the trail. Don’t forget to stop and enjoy the view from time to time! Though we fear you will do this eventually if only to catch your breath. Once on-site, take your time to have a look around. There’s nothing much to guide you apart from a rather arty city plan on the steel shed. Largethat parts of the site are only accessible after conquering a pile of stone or some dense forest vegetation.
Still, if you ask us, it is worth it. Oinoanda delivers an experience as only a few sites do. You get to witness quite a few larger structures that are still standing amongst an otherwise virtually untouched site. Yes, you’ll need to use your imagination, your hiking skills, and your sense of direction, but for that, you get a lot of ‘adventurer-feeling’ in return.
Beauty All Around You Walking Up
A FEW OF THE MAIN LANDMARKS
In between all the rubble and vegetation, you’ll find a few distinctive landmarks from Oinoanda’s heydays that are still standing.
THE AGORA
The Agora (some source also call it the Esplanade) is a substantial stretch of marble floor that is partially overgrown and surrounded by forest and rubble. It is a beautiful part of the site where you can sit in the shade wondering about how this place must have looked like some 2.000 odd years ago.
Head to the top of the hill west of the Agora to enjoy an excellent view of the Eşen stream lake below. All around you’ll see fallen pillars and pillar heads, inscribed columns and other relics that are more difficult to identify with an untrained eye.
The Agora Or Esplanade
The Agora Is Quite Impressive
THE (SO-CALLED) LIBRARY
Without any information board on-site, you’re pretty much left to guesswork when trying to figure out what you’re looking at. These distinct arches were referred to as the so-called Library by some sources, but this could easily be the remnants of a different structure.
Some Excavation Activity At The So-Called Library
THE THERMAL BATHS
The Thermal Baths are now not much more than a few still standing walls and arches. The arches are, once again, living proof of how solid this type of construction is. The better part of the Bath Complex lies under your feet, but that is all part of the Oinoanda experience!
THE THEATRE
You don’t need a guidebook to figure out which building is the Theatre at Oinoanda. Perched higher up on the hill, it overlooks the valley the area and offers stunning views of the Taurus mountain range.
THE CITY WALLS
The massive City Walls, together with the relatively inaccessible location, were the protectors of the city for a very long time during its history. Even today, when most of the city lies in ruins, large stretches of the walls are still proudly standing.
In short, if you love untouched, remote, and off the beaten path places, Oinoanda is a site to consider. A word of warning: don’t attempt to visit this place if you have mobility issues; it simply won’t work. All it takes is to have a good look at our photos to see that this is rough terrain, not to mention the steep climb you need to undertake to get there.
If, however, your physical condition allows it, then visit. Look at it as if it were a hike with a bonus. If you have walking sticks, bring them, they’ll come in handy during the descent.
POINTS OF INTEREST NEARBY
- Cadianda: A site hidden in the woods near Fethiye, Turkey 29.89 km
- Tlos: the oldest Lycian city 30.68 km
- Kibyra, a hidden gem in plain sight 38.85 km
- Things we love about Fethiye, Turkey 41.28 km
- Turkish breakfast: Relaxing, authentic & healthy! 43.34 km
PLACES WE RECOMMEND
Patara
Patara is the longest beach in Turkey. You can walk up to 12 kilometres along this sandy beach, with beautiful dunes in the background. Patara Beach is a pleasure for those who like to walk or ride on the shore and sunbathers and swimmers looking for a natural beach, even in the high season. (Read more)
Mamure Castle
Not every castle is located on a mountain overlooking the area; some are strategically positioned near the sea. With its solid walls and towers immersed in the Mediterranean Sea, it looks like a difficult-to-conquer castle. (Read more)
Sedir Island
Sometimes culture and nature coexist. This is the case with Spider-Island, and a picturesque island tucked away in the Gökova Bay between Akyaka and Marmaris. (Coming soon)
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