GERGA

By Slowtravelguide

A HIKE TO A MYSTERIOUS SITE

Ready to embark on a journey filled with intrigue and wonder? Look no further than Gerga, a hidden sanctuary nestled in the mystical Latmos Mountains of Caria. With its breathtaking boulder rock formations and elusive history, this enchanting mountain range is a must-visit for avid hikers. Add a touch of culture and perhaps even occultism to your day by exploring the secrets of Gerga. While little is known about this enigmatic site, that only adds to the allure once you reach your destination and immerse yourself in the magic of the moment. Discover the unknown, embrace the mystery, and let Gerga captivate your senses.

Getting there isn’t a walk in the park, though, and many fail to find it on their first attempt. In this article, we’ll tell you how to get there, and why you need to go.

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Venture off the beaten path and unlock the secrets of this enigmatic Carian-Hellenistic village, necropolis, and sanctuary. While information may be scarce, the stories shared by French researchers Cousin and Laumonier, as well as their British counterpart Bean, offer tantalizing glimpses into the captivating history of Gerga.

The only obvious thing about it is the relatively easy way to identify the name of the place, Gerga, as you’ll find it over 20 times, carved in the rocks and buildings. The inscriptions are mostly in Greek – or at least a version of it – and Latin, and appear as Gerga, Gergas, and Gergakome. Then again, even the name is a topic of discussion among researchers. Some believe Gerga and Leukai Stelai, mentioned in Herodotus’ texts are the same, and Gerga is the name of a God, rather than a place.

In his piece ‘Two Carian Notes’, Richard P. Harper claims that the name Gerga means “The Sanctuary of Kar”, connecting it to the nearby site of Alabanda and the myth of Alabandos, son of Kar. He is also inclined to support the theory that this place has evolved over different centuries, explaining why there are several hypotheses on the name and even different versions of the same name.

Whatever the name and the history of this place, you can’t help feeling fascinated as soon as you start walking around. As if the enigmatic atmosphere is absorbing you. Often, reading the information boards on-site is a fulfilling experience. But somehow, here in Gerga, the lack of information works well and even enhances your senses. The setting is spectacular, as you are surrounded by almost outer-worldly boulders and structures and artefacts that spur your imagination.

The View From In Between The Monoliths Besides The Temple Tomb Door

The most apparent structure on-site is a small temple or temple tomb, with the name Gergas above the entrance door. This building is entirely made out of stone, including the imitation woodwork roof structure. The first room has an almost square plan of 4,70 x 4m. The back wall, however, is interrupted by an opening to a smaller room that extends outside and measures 2,40 x 2,80m. This niche was probably intended to house the tomb itself, with the main room acting as pronaos.

Look at that roof, all stone!

STELA AND ALTAR

Near the temple tomb are two pointed stelai of over 3 m high, also containing the word Gergas. In between used to stand a colossal statue, which is now overthrown. Almost right next to the second stela stands what looks like an altar. None of the sources indicate what it was used for, other than Laumonier, who assumes that “in more modern times, this bloc was used for the production of olive oil”. The original purpose remains a secret.

Amazing that this stelamis still is standing

Gerga’s other famous buildings include some smaller square roof structures with open fronts that could be tombs or fountain rooms. Some of them also carry the word ‘Gerga’ and even decorative lion heads. The city’s terrace is supported by a huge wall that still stands tall. Between these two, there is only a distant view of nature, the boulders and the reservoir below.

There were also several statues at Gerga, but none of them are still standing. One of those statues – or at least a part of it is now exposed at the Izmir Archaeological Museum. The torso of ca. 3 tonnes is over 2m high and more than 1m wide. It has the word Gerga inscribed on its chest and is believed to be part of a colossal statue more than 7m high.

HOW TO GET TO GERGA

If you want to make a magical and mysterious trip to Gerga, you have to work a little bit. Part of the reason why this place is still relatively unaffected may be related to the difficulty of finding it. In theory, it is possible to drive to the location because a dirt road passes directly above it, but we firmly believe that this is not the right way to experience the charm of this place.

 You need to walk to fully grasp the entire context of the area. Listen to the silence and subtle sounds of nature. Appreciate the surroundings and feel the effort that Gerga visitors must go through in returning to this extraordinary place.

We hiked from the village of Alabayır to Gerga. You can easily drive to the village from the D550 near Eski Çine and follow the signs to Gerga. Before you drive to the starting point of the walk, consider looking around the corner, just past the village, where there is an ancient Roman bridge. After that, return to the village and drive along the road leading to the mosque. Keep it right before reaching the mosque. Then, drive further down in the direction of the valley and the reservoir. You will run into a dead end and have to stop.

After that, walk around the last house in the village, where you will see a sarcophagus. Further down, there is a millstone at the beginning of your hike. The entire hike is on the right side of the valley, mainly on goat tracks. Make sure you dress appropriately, including sturdy walking shoes and clothes that cover your legs to protect you from the sometimes prickly bushes.

Expect obstacles such as enclosed areas (just open the door and close it behind you), barbed wire fences, and cows on the path. There is nothing to worry about, although finding the right track can sometimes be confusing and difficult. If you don’t have a GPS to guide you to the exact location of Gerga, you may want to consider using the villager’s guidance before heading to the track. Although it wasn’t our intention, a village couple insisted their son accompany us. After about 1.5 hours and 3 kilometres, we arrived at Gerga.

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ALABAYIR, ÇINE WEATHER

POSTS NEARBY

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  • Non-touristy Muğla? Visit Hekate in Lagina! 18.29 km
  • Alabanda: countryside meets ancient site 18.88 km
  • Stratonikeia, a well-kept secret in Southern Turkey 23.94 km
  • Alında: tucked away in the sacred Latmos mountains 28.37 km

As we said in the introduction, this hike is not a ‘walk in the park. Make sure you are fully prepared. Bring enough water and food, and dress accordingly.

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